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Category: DIY

Janessa’s Gift- Dresser Flip

Hello there!

I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas! I am so grateful I have such a wonderful family. I had a total of four Christmas gatherings I was able to make this year. I have quite a bit of family so it’s hard to fit everyone in every year. Although the holidays aren’t all about gifts, I did get almost everything I had on my list.

I feel like your officially an adult when you are more excited to give than receive. I like to go by people’s lists that they give for ideas, but a surprise is even better. I surprised my mom with a sign I purchased off Etsy. It had the family last name on it and year of her and my step dad’s marriage. She loved it and it felt good knowing she wasn’t expecting it.

I did a couple handmade gifts. I should’ve started much sooner than I did, but I did get them done in time. I made my brother a small “ribbon hanger” for his work at the fair. It was made out of wood from our barn that was torn down. I attached a wire to a couple screws and the ribbons will be held up by wood pins.

My sister knew what she was getting. She was searching for a new white dresser before Christmas arrived. Her  wooden one was very old and falling apart. I told her to hold off on buying one and I had one at my dads house I could refinish for her as a gift. She loved it and it was totally worth all of the hard work put into it!

I apologize for the quality of the “after” photos. By the time everything was dry and ready to go, we were heading to Christmas and it was dark out. I hate using interior lighting for photos, natural light is usually best. Bare with me here and enjoy!


Before



Painted White



Distressed



Finished Product



This project taught me a couple more things about painting furniture. One, white covers horribly. This took 4 coats of white paint, some parts could’ve used another to be perfect…but I was completely out so it was good enough. Second, you can get a cracked look from chalk paint, which I didn’t mind since this was a distressed piece. If I am doing a solid color in the future, I will sand in between coats next time.

I applied Bauhaus Buff by Amy Howard for my white color with a paint brush. It took me 4 coats of paint without using a primer. I let it dry 3 hours in between each coat. It was distressed with sandpaper. The handles took 3 coats of black spray paint. My top coat for this piece was poly, it didn’t seem to yellow at all (thank goodness). Overall, I love the transformation!

Thanks for reading!

 

“Gatherings” Nightstand Fix


Hey there!

This past week I decided to practice painting another piece of furniture that we had around the house. I actually painted this nightstand before with white paint and coated it with a dark stain. It really isn’t my personal taste. I like distressing and making furniture look like a piece of art. I feel like the way it turned out made it look dirty. Some people like the look I achieved (which is great!), but again, it’s not my personal choice. At the end of the day, it is in my home and I have to live with it.


BEFORE

 

 

I started this small project by wiping off the nightstand with a little dish soap and water.

Since the nightstand was previously painted, I felt that it did not need to be primed (because I was going to be using latex paint on this). I decided to use paint that I had around the house. I had left over latex paint from my dining room, which is called “Gatherings” from Magnolia Market. It is a light warm grey that is the perfect neutral for almost any space. I brushed on two coats of Gatherings and 3 coats of Bauhaus Buff (white neutral) chalk paint from Amy Howard.

I let this dry a full 24 hours before light distressing. You don’t need to wait this long. I’ve heard of many people distressing as soon as it’s dry to the touch. I used a sanding block this time and wasn’t a huge fan. For my last project I used sheets of sandpaper and I felt that let me get into the crevices much easier. After distressing, I added a white dry brush technique to the nightstand. I love adding a little bit of white for dimension and character.

I applied a thin coat of poly for some protection. I would recommend more thin coats if you are going to sell a piece.

I spray painted the handles black to get a classic farmhouse look.


AFTER

 

Thanks for reading!

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First Furniture Flip


Hey There!

This week I have been incredibly busy with a project I thought I would never get through. I’ve read a little bit about flipping furniture online and know a couple people that do it locally. I decided to give it a shot. I needed an accent piece for my office and I thought this dresser would be perfect. My office doubles as my closet so I can also use this for clothing storage as well.

I had this old dresser laying around at my father’s house, therefore I was able to get this piece for free!

My intention is not a DIY tutorial for this post, because this is my “guinea pig” piece. This process took about a week with MANY trial and errors. I am still learning, but this piece has taught me A LOT about painting furniture.

If you don’t feel like reading the entire story, the end result is at the bottom of the page*


BEFORE


PHASE 1

My office is painted Sea Salt by Sherwin Williams and it has different shades of blue for accents. I wanted a color that would correlate with what I already have. I also wanted it to be a statement piece for the room. I chose a blue chalk paint (Serenity Blue by Rust-Oleum).

I really had no idea what I was going to do with it. I thought I could just wing it. So, when I got home I wiped down the dresser and eagerly started painting.

 

I painted the entire dresser with one coat of Serenity and let it dry.

At this point I was thinking to myself, “This isn’t so bad”. I decided that it needed some white to really make this piece stand out. I went to my local Ace Hardware and picked up a can of One Step Paint (chalk paint), Bauhaus Buff by Amy Howard.


Phase 2

This was where things got tricky. I had let the first coat dry for 24 hours (the recommended was only 2 hours). I went to apply the coat of white paint and it was extremely tacky. I only coated the top drawers and top of the dresser. I “dry brushed” the rest with the white paint.

(Tip: I read online that you should mix at least one of your coats of paint with a little bit of water to make it less thick.)

Chalk paint dries extremely fast. You need to work quickly, use the accurate amount of paint in a stroke, and make sure to brush in the same direction (with the grain of the wood). I didn’t follow these rules very well and ended up with a piece that did not make me happy.


Phase 3

Back to the drawing board. I decided the white would need another coat (I probably should’ve done three, but it still looks fine!) I didn’t mind the look of the dresser, but something was off. The blue was clashing with my wall colors and my eye wanted to stay focused on the center of the dresser. I don’t think everything should be “matchy-matchy“, but it felt like an eye sore when looking around the room.

I decided that I would try painting the bottom drawers white to tone down the blue and even out the white paint.

After the drawers were all painted, I felt like I was heading in the right direction.

 I spray painted the pulls a silver color.

I was debating on putting a dark wax so the blue would “go with” the room’s existing colors better..but I just wasn’t happy with it. I really didn’t want to half-ass this project.

I finally said “screw it”.


Phase 4, The Final Phase.

I dug out my Sea Salt acrylic latex paint and painted over the blue. I was hesitant to do this, because I don’t often hear of people using “wall paint” on furniture. Turns out, YES, you can do it. I had so many layers of chalk paint on this that served as a primer. The paint glided on like silk. There was absolutely no tacky texture.

I painted the sides and top with two coats of Sea Salt as well. I didn’t want the dresser to come off too “cookie-cutter” since it was the same color as the office walls, so I added strokes of white “dry brush” and distressing. I did a very thin clear coat of Poly from Rust-Oleum. (If I were to sell this piece, I would’ve done two thin coats for more protection.. or even used a clear wax.) 

I should also mention that in person, the dresser is a bit more minty of a color, but changes throughout the day as Sea Salt does.

Final Result



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Thanks for reading! 🙂

A Simple Update: Board and Batten

Hello friends! This week my new headboard was delivered and I am in LOVE! As I’ve said before, I have struggled with the look of my bedroom and what direction I want to take with it. It took me awhile to find my style. My original plan was to go for a French country feel…but after it was all said and done, it felt very cold. I guess you can say I can cross that off the list.

I’d like to describe my personal style as coastal farmhouse more than anything. I don’t live near a lake, but I’ve been drawn to this style of homes. I am also drawn to different characteristics of a home. We all know my love for shiplap, but I also love classic wainscoting.

I had been doing some pinning lately and noticed that I really love the look of board and batten. I thought that this would make a good accent for my bedroom wall. I would really love to do this all around my room, but we have paneling on one wall… and I’m not ready to discover what’s underneath it.

I didn’t do a step tutorial on this, because I was just trying to get a feel of how to do this (I’m not going to teach you guys unless I know what the hell I’m doing).

A few things I did right: Paint the wall first. Second, have two people do this project. One person should hold the wood and the other should make sure it’s level. Third, the top piece should be larger than the vertical pieces.

A few things I learned the hard way: Pick straight boards. I just picked up some 1x4s from the hardware store and didn’t pay attention to how straight they were. Second, I learned that you should probably caulk the space in between the board and wall to give a more professional finish. Last but not least, I would probably sand the wood lightly so its nice and smooth before painting it.

This was just a tester wall to see if I could do it and the imperfections are hardly noticeable. I love the way it turned out! Board and batten just adds the perfect amount of class and character to a room. (Plus it’s super cheap to do!)

 

 

Bedroom Closet Refresh

Hey friends!

I have been working on this project for a couple weeks now and I am proud to say it’s finally finished. I probably could’ve gotten it done a lot sooner if I kept focus, but you know how things get…right?

Now why put so much time and energy into a closet? Well our closet in the bedroom doesn’t have a door on it, and I have yet to find a way to put one on. There isn’t a lot of room for the door to swing without hitting the bed and there is a vent on the wall next to the closet opening, therefore I don’t want to cover with a sliding barn door… so as of now it’s just open. So it’s kind of an eyesore.

I want to avoid having ugly corners in my home, but spaces like this also need to be functional. So I gave this little closet an overhaul…and when I say little, I mean it’s tiny. It fits 3/4s of my boyfriends shirts. We have to stash his nice flannels and button downs (which he hardly wears) upstairs because there is no room here. Now, we can’t do much about increasing the space, but I can make it nicer to look at. Also, I am only 5′ 2″ so I don’t care for grabbing a stool to reach the shelf.

So the mission here is: Make it pretty and functional. No problem.

I am still on my huge budget so this also needed to be an affordable update (my dream built ins are out of the question here). The least expensive option would be to rip down the wallpaper and paint. Well, I attempted taking down the wallpaper (I think there was 3-4 layers)…got half way through and gave up on that idea. It was taking forever and it was the LAST bit of wallpaper to take down in the house…so yeah, screw that.

We were very grateful to receive a bunch of free tongue and groove cedar planks from my previous employer awhile back. I was able to use these as my “shiplap”. So the only things I needed to purchase for this project was paint, a 1 x 4 board, and nails for the nail gun. (I had the cedar planks, stain, screws, and tools which are all necessary to complete this project)

Phase 1:

  • stain the pieces of wood for the ceiling, shelf, and floor.

How to Stain:

I used a dark walnut stain.

  1. Spread the stain with a brush or rag
  2. leave it for a few (5-15) minutes
  3. wipe off the excess stain
  4. I used an oil base stain so I allowed it 24 hours to dry before using it.

Phase 2:

  • Remove existing baseboards and/or trim (I took off the baseboards and existing shelving, but I did not remove the trim around the door.)
  • You can do this with a pry bar and hammer.

Phase 3:

  • Add tongue and groove planking to walls of closet.

How to Hang Tongue and Groove Planks

The image on the left is the tongue of the board. The image on the right is the groove. Inserting the tongue inside the groove the other board will lock them together. (In case you haven’t noticed, I am in no way, shape, or form a hand model of any sort.)

  1. Start at the ceiling
  2. Measure the wall
  3. Cut your piece to the measurement
  4. Make sure this first piece is level
  5. Use a stud finder to nail your board to the studs of the wall.
  6. Mark where the studs run
  7. Nail (with a nail gun with 32 mm finishing nails) only the top of your board to the wall (DO NOT NAIL THE BOTTOM YET…)
  8. Measure your second piece and cut it to the correct measurement
  9. The tongue will be facing downward again, so slide the groove into the tongue of the first piece.
  10. To lock this in place, use a hammer and tap (Either be gentle with this or use a board in between your hammer and the tongue and groove board so you do not damage the tongue and groove board.)
  11. Then nail the bottom of the first piece and the top of the second piece (If you nail the bottom of a board before sliding in the next, then it doesn’t allow you any wiggle room to lock the boards together)
  12. Keep doing this process all the way down, the last piece may need to be cut down with a table saw.
  13. Work your way around the room in the same fashion you did for steps 1-11.

 

Phase 4:

  • Paint the tongue and groove planking
  • Use a primer or paint + primer
  • I used “designer white” from my local hardware store
  • Use a paint brush

Phase 5:

  • Nail stained wood to ceiling

How to hang ceiling planks:

Obviously, I hung the boards before painting. This way would avoid having paint carefully next to the ceiling since I wasn’t adding any moldings, SO paint before doing the ceiling!

  1. Start the boards in the middle of the ceiling (center with the light fixture..this allows the end boards to be measure evenly)
  2. Measure the ceiling and where the light fixture holes need to be
  3. Cut the boards to your measurements
  4. Attach and nail the planks as you did before
  5. Add any ceiling moldings (if any)

Phase 6:

Create rack for clothing.

  1. Figure and mark the height you want for your rack and shelf.
  2. Measure the width for your board and make your cut
  3. Make sure your board is level
  4. Attach  1×4 or a 2×4 board using screws and a drill
  5. Mark where you want the rod to be
  6. Make sure you have enough room for the hanger so it doesn’t rub against the wall (mine was about 12-13 inches out from the wall)
  7. Attach holders for rod to 1×4 board
  8. Do the same steps as 1-7 to the other side of the wall (it’s important that everything is level)
  9. Trim the rod (if it happens to be wood) so it will fit into the holders

Phase 7:

Create shelf:

This one is a bit more difficult to explain, but if you have questions: comment, e-mail, or Facebook message me!

  1. Figure where you want the end of your shelf to be and mark it (mine was about 21 1/2 inches from the wall)
  2. Cut a piece of 1×4 into a 5 inch piece and then screw it into the right and left 1×4’s
  3. Measure between the 1x4s and cut a piece of stained planking to the measurement (make sure this piece of stained planking is 4 inches so it covers the 1×4’s)
  4. Nail the stained wood with a nail gun to the outside ends of the 5inch 1×4’s
  5. Measure between the top of two the 1x4s so a board can rest on them.
  6. Cut stained wood to the measurement and nail it to the top of the two 1×4’s with a nail gun, go all the way back.
  7. This step is not shelf related, but you should attach your baseboards and final trimming at the end here 🙂

NOTE: I am not setting anything heavy on this shelf, if you plan to, you will need more support.

Again, if you have any questions feel free to comment, message me on Facebook @ myfarmhousefixerupper or email me at farmhousefixerupper@gmail.com

Thanks for reading and I hope you like it as much as I do!! 🙂

How To Paint Wood Floors

Hey friends!

This week I decided to do a spur of the moment project. It had no planning whatsoever, luckily I had the right products to complete it sitting around my house.

I had a gallon of white paint/primer and was thinking to myself “Wow those steps are ugly.” So, I decided to paint them. I felt like a total rebel doing this because your supposed to paint your walls, not your floors….and I mean WHITE?! I know I’m a little insane.

The idea actually stemmed from watching Safe Haven on Netflix the other day. The lead character decided to paint her floors “lemon twist” yellow. Although I’m not brave enough to indulge in such a bold color, I still found the idea of painting the floor intriguing.

You Will Need:

  • Paint Brush
  • 150 Grit Sandpaper
  • Damp rag
  • Wood floor cleaner
  • Vacuum
  • Paint
  • Primer
  • Polyeurethane

Step 1: Prep the Surface

  • You should use 150 grit sand paper to do this.
  • The goal is to roughen them up a little so the paint sticks to the wood

Step 2: Clean the Surface

  • I vacuumed the steps and then wiped them down with a damp rag with water (no soap).
  • You may choose to use wood floor cleaner
  • Let the floors dry (I’ve seen other posts that say to wait 24 hours to let them dry, but I just waited about an hour because I didn’t get them very wet and it worked fine for me..)

Step 3: Prime/Paint

  • Prime your floor
  • OR start painting if your paint is a combo of paint/primer with a paintbrush (rollers can cause bubbles easier than brushes)
  • I used 2 coats of paint + primer and let them dry an hour and a half in between coats. (Probably best to wait longer…it’s recommended to wait 24 hours in between coats of paint, but I’m impatient and it turned out just fine)
  • Since I was doing stairs, I started from the top and worked my way down.
  • If you are painting the floor of a room, don’t trap yourself into a corner.

Step 4: Let it Dry

  • Let your paint dry for 24 hours before putting on your clear coat or walking on it

Step 5:  Apply “Clear Coat”

  • You don’t have to apply a polyeurethane topcoat, but it really does make it last longer and much easier to clean.
  • Apply 1-2 coats of polyeurethane with a brush.
  • Depending on what brand of polyeurethane you use will determine how many coats you will need and the dry time in between layers, the container should tell you. If you don’t know, wait 24 hours in between coats to play it safe.

Step 6: Allow Polyeurethane to Dry

  • The polyeurethane should dry for at least 24 hours before walking on it.

They look so clean and fresh now! I am very excited about how this quick and inexpensive project turned out. I think the shiplap wall needs some spunk…maybe a gallery wall?? Hmm. There really are an endless amount of projects to do… good thing it’s my favorite hobby 😉

 

 

Paint Your Outdated Sink

Hello friends!

Well I had some extra time on my hands this week, so I decided to complete a project that I’ve procrastinated for about a year. Last year I redid most of my bathroom. I added shiplap, bought a new shower curtain, painted my cabinets, made a ladder, and decorated.

We bought a couple new light fixtures, faucet, and a shower head… but we never got to them. Well, I finally got some motivation and had all of them installed! I had the lights put in about a month or two ago and did the rest this week! Now, the sink wasn’t AWFUL before…but the creamy faux marble clashed with the white shiplap.

I looked at new vanities online, but they were way out of my budget. Besides, there’s nothing wrong with this itty bitty vanity, other than the sink color…. I went to my local Ace Hardware and found Homax’s “Tough as Tile” kit.

This product was around $35 at the hardware store. Rustoleum makes a similar product for about $30.

Types of surfaces “Tough as Tile” works on:

  • Fiberglass
  • Porcelain
  • Glazed Ceramic Tile
  • Countertop Laminate

Supplies needed:

  • Tough as Tile paint
  • Steel wool
  • Surface cleaner
  • Tack cloth
  • Paint brush
  • Nitrile Gloves
  • Painters Tape
  • Respirator mask

Total time for project:

  • 2-3 Days

Step 1: Remove faucet if you plan to replace

  • I actually cheated this part because I wasn’t sure where to shut the water off  (we need new valves under our sink), and I’m sort of impatient…..but you’re SUPPOSED to remove it before painting. 😉
  • When you take off the old faucet it can get pretty dirty, so that’s why it’s best to do this before cleaning.
  • If you plan to keep your faucet, tape around it after you clean the sink and faucet.

Step 2: Clean

  • Use a surface cleaner and steel wool to get all the gunk off your sink.
  • Rinse your sink out and let it dry.
  • Use tack cloth to remove any dust.

Step 3: Paint

  • Stir the paint before applying, don’t shake!
  • For the love of God, don’t get this on your hands, wear gloves. ( oops. )
  • Apply a thin layer of paint to your sink.
  • Try going in one direction with your paint
  • I painted horizontal with the curve in the bowl of the sink, rather than vertical
  • Allow 4 hours to dry in between coats with the Homax brand
  • It took me a total of 4 coats to completely cover.

 

Step 4: Let It Dry

  • Allow 2-3 days for the sink to completely dry

Step 5: Put New Faucet In

  • After you have put your new faucet in or removed the tape from the original faucet, you are finished! ♥

Eventually, I would like to do a different tile in here, get a new tub, and tile the shower… but it’s progress! AND get a quality camera so my pictures can dazzle you….One day at a time, but at least now I can take pictures of this room without trying to hide the “bad spots”. This project only took a couple days and saved me a lot of money!! So far the paint is staying on great, I will keep you posted if that changes!

Decorate Your Mudroom Bench

The past few days I have been working on my entry/mudroom. Our entry is only 7×5 feet so its quite small. To make this space functional, we added a mudroom bench so we have a place to store and hang our jackets. If you have guests over or aren’t using it, you can use it as a decorative piece. It’s the welcome statement into your home and it should really show your style.

I came up with a few different ways to decorate it using things I had around the house. There are endless possibilities to what you can do here. I chose just a few to give you a bit of inspiration. Pinterest is also a great source for finding inspiration for your mudroom/entry.

In my last blog post, I painted the room and bench to give it a fresh look. My home has a farmhouse feel but a feminine touch to it. I wanted relay this message in my entry to give a cohesive look. I think that the main rooms of the home should flow together.

Keep It Simple

The first look I will show you is what I chose to do for my last blog post. It is very simple and there could be a few things added to it, but I just used what I had.

I traded my cotton for leafy greens in my living and dining so I made use of them in here. I think cottons can really go with any season so these could stay here year round if I wanted to (but I constantly change my mind so I doubt they will be there too long). My boyfriends mom made me the gorgeous “Gather” sign. There isn’t too much going on here because I wanted to keep it simple. Another good idea for this space would be baskets up top instead of the décor pieces. This would allow for more storage in a small area.

Add Pillows

The next idea is to add pillows. My bench is rather small so I didn’t want to clutter it. The grey fabric compliment the wall color in this room. Pillows can be fun for this area so you can bring in hints of color. They also make the space feel a bit more cozy. I added my Guess bag because of it’s shape and earth tones.

Crates and Plants

Here I added plants on the bench. It’s fun to mix different textures and shapes together. The greenery really draws your eye in because of light colors everywhere else. The green is bold compared to the pastel pink and light tan bag. The crate adds a vintage and farmhouse feel.

 

Farmhouse Focus

This look has a lot of browns and whites. I decided to lose color and bring in those brown neutral tones. I love this arrangement. There isn’t a lot of space to hang up your jacket so this is best if you just want your décor to be the focus.

No Decor

I obviously love decorating and can’t help myself, so I’m not sure if I could handle nothing. I don’t have kids though and I know it can be really hard to keep things tidy. You can always decide to not decorate your bench, or just decorate up top. This place should be functional for your needs. You may need all the coat space and the storage. I think it still looks great all on its own!

As you can see, there are many ways to spruce up your mudroom bench. You can keep it simple with your décor or make a statement. It’s fun to add different colors and textures to make it pop. Make sure it shows your personal style, flows with your home, but also suites your needs.

Bathroom Organizing: Open Shelving

Well here it is, my first late post. It’s been such a crazy week, we all have that right? The other day I decided to declutter, which is a huge stress reliever. I organized it (and hopefully it stays that way) top to bottom in a way that makes it super convenient yet stylish.

Bathrooms can be ridiculously expensive, depending on your taste. I’m cursed with loving everything expensive. I don’t always go for it, but it’s the first thing that will catch my eye. Hide the price tags and I’m sure I can still point it out. Anyways, we all can’t afford to do a huge renovation.

One of the many things you can do with your bathroom is have organized storage. I chose to have open shelving in my bathroom cabinet so it constantly has to look neat. I love everything fresh and clean (except my car, it’s a mess). The first thing to do is to declutter. Take out all of the things you do not need. Don’t try to convince yourself to keep that two year old lipstick you’ll never actually use. Throw it in the trash.

My cabinet started off as its natural wood finish so I decided to paint it white. After I did all that work, we added white shiplap. The white cabinet wasn’t a statement anymore. I wanted to add some contrast and give the bathroom a classic industrial feel. I decided painted it black instead. One thing to add about painting furniture black…it gets SUPER dusty! So think carefully before you pick up the brush.

With open shelving, you might want more “pretty pieces” to go inside the cabinet. Consider what these pieces can be functional for. Our bathroom is a tight space so being creative was necessary.

I placed bath towels on the bottom right shelf. Towels are used every day so they should be in reach and easy to access. I also put a few more a couple levels up for extra. Candles give me a sense of relaxation, so why not put them in them in the bathroom? On the bottom left shelf is a woven basket with hand and wash towels. Matching towels give a higher end look. The white towels make you feel as if you’re in a hotel. I keep my wash towels dark because of make up.

The next level up contains a metal basket of TP. I have a confession here, I don’t use this TP. It’s totally for looks because of my OCD. I need there to be an amount that keeps it looking full and never running too low. We stash our actually TP in the bottom cabinet which has doors. I keep the decorative TP because, well, it’s just cute okay? Next to the metal basket it a jar of cotton balls.

The top basket on the right contains medicines. We get sick once or twice a year so we can put them up higher. While you’re putting medicine in the appropriate place, check the expirations while your at it. I kept the Tylenol in the drawer because I get headaches often. You’d be amazed at what you’ve been hoarding over the years

It is so important to keep most of your bathroom décor feeling like you’re in a bathroom. When I first decorated this space, I put random things in the shelves. Sure it was cute, but it was like what’s the purpose of the pitcher on the shelf?  You can totally have random items, but it’s fun to add a bit of creativity!

I received the mason jar set as a gift for graduation a few years ago. It’s super cute and you can use it anywhere in your home! It originally had flowers in it, but it worked perfectly for this space. I dumped the flowers and put q tips, cotton balls, and face was in them. Still stylish, but very functional. Other options you could do: toothbrushes, toothpaste, lotions, nail polish, etc. The last shelf belongs to the feminine products. I put razors, tampons, etc in this bucket. All products are hidden, but are still accessible.

Soo.. here’s a review of the way I have organized:

1. Towels: Bath and wash

2. Daily Necessities: toothbrushes, pastes, cotton balls, toilet paper, etc.

3. Extra Towels and other necessities

4. Medicines and once a month products

I could see levels 1 and 2 switched around to fit your personal needs. May cabinet also contains a few drawers and doors under the open shelving. These are products I don’t want to show the world or aren’t visually appealing. They contain face washes, acne treatments, hair products, etc. The lower cabinet contains cleaning supplies for the bathroom. All tucked away and looking lovely.

I hope this helped inspire some ideas for your own bathroom!

Wood Wall

This is my first post for a DIY project so this is already done. I apologize if these instructions are not too in depth. This is my first time explaining a DIY so bare with me! I plan on doing something similar to this soon so I can post step by step pictures. Here are step by step instructions on what to do. This wall uses the same size of plywood strips, you can use various sizes but these are 6 inches.

Before

After

 

Time Length of Project:

  • Can be done in 1- 2 days

Things you will need:

  • plywood
  • sand paper
  • various stains (early American, special walnut, dark walnut, golden oak, etc.)
  • stain brushes
  • nail gun
  • finishing nails
  • chop saw
  • pry bar
  • nails

Step 1: Plywood

  • Get a sheet of plywood from a store of your choice. We got ours from Home Depot.
  • Do not use the thinnest option of plywood.
  • Cut the plywood into 6 inch strips. (We had Home Depot cut them for us while we were there…it is 50 cents a cut)

Step 2: Sanding

  • Sand the plywood by hand so it is nice and smooth (this shouldn’t take long, because there is usually one side of the plywood already sanded)

Step 3: Staining

  • Pick out a bunch a random stains to use… I used early American, special walnut, dark walnut, and golden oak
  • use a stain brush to apply the stain
  • randomly stain the boards and try mixing stain colors

Step 4: Wait

  • Once you have the boards stained, let them dry. I let them dry over night, but I’m sure about 4 hours would be fine.

Step 5: Remove trim

  • You should remove your trim, including baseboards.
  • You can do this with a pry bar and hammer

Step 6: Cut and Nail

  • After the boards are dry you are ready to put them on the wall.
  • The boards can have random lengths, full lengths, or a pattern. (I chose random)
  • Cut the boards with a chop saw to the length you want them.
  • Use a nail gun to hang them on the wall. (You can use a stud finder to nail into studs, but the plywood is light enough you might not need to worry about it)
  • You can use nickels as spacers if you want a space in between the boards (I chose not to do this)

Step 7: Add trim

  • After you hang the wood, you can put up your desired trim, like baseboards.

Feel free to ask questions if you have any! 🙂